Holy Ridge I Route (聖稜線I型)

Advertisement: A classic thru-hike in Taiwan from west to east. You can see much of the northwest coast from the ridge, which runs north-south. Terrain is tricky but fun.

After a long climb up onto the ridge, Dabajian 大霸尖 comes into view.

Looking south on the Holy Ridge toward Mt. Mutorop 穆特勒布山.

Looking north on the Holy Ridge from near its southern terminus.

The Mt. Syue 雪山 cirque.


More photographs.

Difficulty: We did a 4-day trip:
  • Day 0: 10.5 mi (17 km) and 610 ft (185 m), half day from the Dabajian Service Station (大霸尖山登山服務站) to Madala Creek Campground (馬達拉溪登山口營地), mostly a gentle downhill gravel road which can be done very fast. Before the road begins to switchback there is a steep footpath through the forest which cuts out a lot of distance and time, indicated by an sign and some stone benches. It is open to bikes, but for a one-way trip you would need a way to recover the bike. The campground at the end is just some flat space next to a condemned ranger station. There are some sheds which people sleep in as "shelters" to avoid bringing a tent but space is limited.
  • Day 1: 8 mi (13 km) and 6230 ft (1900 m) to Dabajian and its little brother (大小霸尖) to Banan Hut (霸南山屋), the hardest day elevation-wise. The terrain until is straightforward until Dabajian, which is the northern terminus of the Holy Ridge (聖稜線). A short out-and-back side trip to Hsiaobajian 小霸尖 is recommended. From here one descends down a gully which can be steep and rocky, and if it rains the gully becomes a stream.
  • Day 2: 3 mi (5 km) and 2900 ft (880 m) to Sumida Hut (素密達山屋). The most challenging day in terms of terrain, can be very bushy and rocky. The Sumida Cliffs (素密達斷崖) are at the end, which would be a 3 pitch class 5 downclimb if it weren't for the bolts hammered into the cliff, which make it feel more like a class 4 (and there are also fixed ropes). From Sumida Hut there is a spur trail to Mt. Mutorop (穆特勒布山).
  • Day 3: 10.5 mi (17 km), 2800 ft (855 m) to Mt. Syue (雪山) to Xueshan Service Station (雪山登山服務站). After Sumida Hut and before topping out on the ridge there are three roped sections. The first isn't too notable. The second and third are to get over up and down a rocky "rib" and are class 4, especially when wet. There are often informally placed ropes, but be wary; I have seen some of them unsheathed and core-shot. Once on the ridge it's rocky up and down. After Beilengjiao (北棱角) there is a class 3/4 downclimb.
A 5-day trip may be more leisurely. On timing, noting that sunrise is roughly 6am, our day 0 we started a little after noon and had plenty of time to spare. On day 1, we started at sunrise and reached Hsiaobajian at 1pm, then thunderstorms soon after, we got hailed on and reached camp around 2pm. On day 2, we started at sunrise and got up Mt. Mutorop (after leaving packs at Sumida Cabin) around 1:30pm, thunder and hail started around 3pm. On day 3, we started an hour before sunrise, reached Mt. Syue around noon, heard thunder occasionally in the afternoon and finished around 6pm, with the last hour in some moderate rain.

Preparation:

Water: The huts have rainwater collection systems. However, the huts that are not on the Holy Ridge proper (including 99, 中霸, 369) sometimes run out of water or cut off access since far more day hikers or overnighters pass through there. Status can be checked here. Otherwise, water on the ridge can be hard to find, and often requires a detour. Bringing sufficient carrying capacity is important. The water sources labeled 黑水塘 (dark pool) on the Sunriver map are very very brown and will probably clog up any filter very fast.

Weather: Definitely depends on the season. Our trip was late June. Mornings started out completely clear, but would cloud or fog up as the day progressed, with thunderstorms or hailstorms starting between 1-3pm. It's best not to be out during this time, and definitely do not want to be climbing anything during these times. This might mean starting at or just before sunrise to maximize clear weather. It may also mean less ambitious scheduling.

Note that in the winter, parts of the ridge can ice over, and Mt. Syue often gets snow. Many people seem to do this without ice axe or crampons but I recommend both. The winter route up Mt. Syue is a bootpacked traverse which belies the very steep gradient near the top of the cirque, which reaches 35-40 degrees. A fall there could very well be catastrophic. On the other hand, it is possible and fun to glissade down if you know how to (read: have practiced) self-arrest. If you're unsure about the steepness at the top, hike down a little bit before starting. There are a few small cliff-like drops; note them on the way up to avoid them on the way down.



Summary: This route includes two popular overnight or long day hikes: one to Dabajian (大霸尖) and one to Mt. Syue (雪山). The highlight is the Holy Ridge in between these two mountains, especially the day 2 section, which involved lots of up and down on interesting terrain with ever-changing views.

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