Lassen Peak, Southeast Ridge [April 1-2, 2017]

Advertisement: An ascent of snow-covered Lassen Peak, with panoramic views at the top.


The early morning fog begins to break, revealing the landscape below


A sea of clouds

The final summit block of Lassen Peak

Views of Mt. Shasta from the summit


Difficulty: Roughly 5 miles and 1500 ft of elevation to Lake Helen, then another 2 miles and 1800 ft of elevation to the summit.

This is a good mountain for beginning mountaineers, but probably not recommended for first-time mountaineers without someone experienced in the party.  It will involve both snow climbing and snow camping.

Preparation: Snowshoes are necessary if one plans to do any hiking past the early morning.  See this page for general preparations for snow hikes.  See this failed attempt for more information on the approach.

Summiting: Ice axe and crampons are a must once on the ridge.  Helmets recommended.  For best mountain conditions, summit early (we woke up at 5am).  The summit block is a short and easy steep ice/snow climb from the "front" and even easier from the "backside."

Camp: We camped by a cluster of trees to the southeast of Lake Helen.  As you round Lake Helen to the south (near the Bumpass Hell Trailhead), you will encounter a strong wind channel.  Once you pass this and the wind dies down, look for a sheltered spot to make camp.  We were able to make do with a 3-season backpacking tent (the Half Dome 2) with a forecast of low winds (be advised that winds in this area are highly localized).  Bring shovels to dig out a camp (for wind protection and for comfort).  Though we did not need it, a deadman anchor will make secure your tent.

Route: The route to Lake Helen mostly follows the summer road, with exceptions: (1) the ranger cutoff:  Take the ranger cutoff starting from immediately after the hot spring streams after Sulfur Works.  If it has been awhile since the last snowfall, there may be tracks, but there may also not be.  Navigation can be difficult.  Early on, there is a gully with Diamond Peak to the climber's right.  Stay to the left of this gully; (2) Emerald Sidehill: sometimes, the road along Emerald Sidehill may be entirely buried, turning it into a traverse along a steep slope.  If it becomes too difficult, you may have to either take off your snowshoes or climb over the sidehill.

The route up the mountain is also straightforward, as the southeast ridge is the most obvious ridge.  It may happen that a fog shrouds the mountain early in the morning.  In this case, routefinding becomes more difficult, but the fog may clear moments at at time, enough for the climber to regain his or her sense of direction.

Summary: To climb into the fog early in the morning and see nothing, to look back and see the fog clear suddenly behind me, revealing the expansive landscape below, is a rare feeling.  It is this moment that I remember most vividly, rather than summiting.  Lassen stands far above any nearby mountains, so the view from the summit is panoramic.  Shasta can be seen to the north.  5/5



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